I have to admit a fondness for smallish hotels with some sense of history and substance, away from the madding crowds of package tourists and Gucci suit-wearing, chest shoving Western CEO's and their lackeys. I also admit to a fondness of Kuala Lumpur, a feeling that matures and grows with every trip. So it is with a feeling of satisfaction and well-being that I sit down at the desk of my room at the Bintang Warisan (literally "Star Heritage") hotel in downtown Bukit Bintang "Star Hill" after finding my normal lodging at the Concorde booked out for school holidays and the upcoming Deepavali Indian festival.

Kuala Lumpur has travelled the road from country town of the 60's, to an ugly ducking of the 70's to 90's preoccupied with pulling down history and replacing it with functional and soul destroying architecture, to a city that is coming alive in this century. If there is one characteristic that can set it apart from neighbouring Singapore and Bangkok it's a sense of vibrancy and a culture that owes much to the proud independence yet synergy of the great South East Asian races of Malay, Chinese and Indian. Kuala Lumpur is made up roughly of around 45% Malay, 45% Chinese and the other 10% mainly Indian, reflecting the preference of the Chinese for the towns, rather than the rural strongholds of the Malay, who are the majority race in Malaysia overall.

While Greater Kuala Lumpur is still dominated architecturally by the functional grey 3 story mid rise in commercial areas the heart of KL has seen the erection of many attractive high rises in the past decade. Yet there were times over the past decade when I despaired after rows of heritage Chinese shop houses and colonial buildings were razed in the name of progress and "development". We can no longer pop over the road from the office to have the $8 RM set lunch at the superb Coq D'or, and heritage buildings, which define and give residents and visitors alike a feel for history and Malaysian culture are left in a state of disrepair. While Singapore's riches allowed them to halt their own destruction in the 90's and put effort into restoring these places, Kuala Lumpur looked like they were about to miss the boat.

In Singapore I stay at gracious small places like the long missed Chinese shop house restored Inn of the Sixth Happiness, and the now equally gracious but more snooty (and pricey) Duxton Hill. In Kuala Lumpur choices are more limited but the Bintang Warisan stands out unless you go for the highly overpriced prestige heritage guest house places.

The foyer is marked by simple elegance, nicely panelled with polished floors, and the lifts whisk you up to very comfortable rooms with wooden furniture. Of course there are the obligatory portraits of Mahathir and the current King and Queen taking pride of place. The coffee house downstairs is furnished in Chinese Nonya style, and provides a nice view of the central shopping area as Kuala Lumpur wakes up in the morning. Being central, transport is easier than normal, and just behind the hotel is one of Kuala Lumpur's most famous street eating streets - Jalan Alor. Here you can feast on Chinese noodles, dim sum, noodles, Malay curries, grilled ikan (fish), nasi "rice", roti (bread), and even Western food 24 hours a day. You can even have a beer. Across the street is Castells - still my choice as the best unknown and cosiest steakhouse in Asia. The only down is the constant harassing from pimps on the street outside, but you get that if you are staying at most 5 and 6 star hotels in Kuala Lumpur as well. And for around $120 RM a night, (after negotiation), life is good.

I will enjoy reporting from here for the next week or so sharing with you the vibrancy, curiosities and joys of living and working in Kuala Lumpur.