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Blanchard's' Oriental Travel Journal


On getting from KL to Singapore and back, getting currency in and out in Malaysia, the white ghost meets the hungry ghost, and playing the Karaoke Game


Friday 5th August: Kuala Lumpur


3 meetings in Singapore yesterday and I decided rather than booking out of the hotel for a day or two I will take the early shuttle down and the late shuttle back.

I wish I hadn't.

5:30 am wake up call, then to the airport after haggling with the cab driver who wanted to charge me 25 Ringitt to the airport. 20 Ringitt is the going rate, except for 12 midnight to 6 am, during rush hours (8am to 11am and 4pm to 8pm, or if its raining, a public holiday, or you look like you don't know better. That doesn't leave much time for a standard rate, so if you qualify insist..

The plane was delayed 30 minutes, now you have to get a shuttle from the boarding lounge instead of boarding directly, and believe it or not, the same thing at Changi, where Terminal 3 works means its the extra bus ride again. Thank God for the good taxi service to the city of Singapore. Usual Singapore efficiency, everybody on time, documents signed, quick bowl of noodles for a late lunch and back to the airport to go through the taxi, check in, immigration, boarding lounge, bus, flight, bus, immigration, taxi and back to the hotel sequence again. At least you don't have to haggle with the cabbie at Subang, there are set rates at Subang as long as you buy your ticket at the "Limousine" counter. The "Limousines" look like 10 year old Toyotas and as normal they come equipped with a cab driver who wants to talk when you don't or one who is stoically silent when you want to talk. Always one or the other...and not only in KL...all over the world.

Back to the hotel at 11:30 pm. but boy do I feel tired today. And I also worked out with the new highway from KL to Singapore its quicker and cheaper to drive.....

...Maybe next time.... Then again you miss out on those wonderful MAS/SIA hosties tucking you in for a 30 minute nap on the flight....

Monday 7th August, Kuala Lumpur


One of those action packed days again. First a call from Australia at 6am (8am their time), finished off with a midnight call from the UK, (6pm their time). Problems still with getting money transferred to my bank account in KL. Believe me all the forms you have to fill in here to get money in and out has to be seen to be believed. And each form has to be approved by about 3 other people. And if that person is away for lunch, surau, or even a annual holidays..the cheques stays at the same place on the assembly line...that guy's desk. Certainly Singapore has a great edge here compared to Malaysia, still much red tape, but the red tape is got through quicker.

Of course the boon for the commercial traveller in Asia today is those automatic teller thingis... I've waved goodbye to travellers cheques, carrying cash in several different currencies, and exchanging cash at ridiculous rates at airports. As long as you know the local banks that accept your card you can withdraw money from many auto tellers in the main cities, directly from your credit card or current account back home..and the exchange rates are much better too.

Wednesday 9th August, Kuala Lumpur


The start of the Chinese hungry ghosts festival...my friends here tell me that you cant go out tonight because the spirits will be at their liveliest. The troops are lighting up their joss sticks to deter the evil and encourage the good.... Still don't understand why the ghosts are meant to be hungry, for in Malaysia, as any visitor knows there is no scarcity of food. The pavements are full of hawker stalls selling everything from Chicken and Pork Rice to Kway Teow (spelt in innumerable ways depending on the proclivity of the stall holder) to Carrot Cake and the various Malaysian sweets. Moon cakes are already taking pride of place in all my local cake shops and department stores as well as the aforesaid hawker stores. All a bit of a con really says Suzi because the tradition says you cant eat these until the end of the Hungry Ghosts festival. Bit like Easter back home I guess, where Easter Eggs are on sale for 2 months before the event. Of course, brought up in a very Christian family, it was bordering on sacrilege to consume the eggs before the time, and of course on Good Friday it was definite sacrilege....the Catholics had no problem of course as they were observing Lent prior to Easter...almost as fastidiously as the Muslims observe Hari Raya and cut down on pleasures of the body quite severely for a long time.

I guess the Evil ghosts are all eating the Moon cakes prior to the right time, while the good ghosts wait till the right time....

...hence only the good are hungry...

Still, heeding the advice of Suzi I decided to go out last night seeing tonight was an obvious no-no. By happy coincidence Nora rang me at the hotel saying that she really wanted to see me and why don't I meet her at the Hard Rock Cafe (SPG speak for I've run out of gweilos to pay for my night out so I'm going through the old entries in my address book) . By yet another happy coincidence it was also the eve of Prophet Muhammad's birthday meaning a public holiday in Kuala Lumpur for all regardless of their affection for the good Prophet or not.

Of course the Kuala Lumpur Hard Rock Cafe is the best of all HRC's throughout the world according to the seasoned HRC city hoppers. It certainly has the highest turnover of any in the world say those that know, the high point being the half hour just before closing time on weekends when the lights go down and all the bar staff jump on top of the bar and dance to a medley of Rock and Roll songs from the time of my youth. The more vigorous of the bar staff belt the bejeezus out of the metal bar with any hard instrument around at the time (not a difficult thing to find in this place) in rhythm to the beat. Bar service is impossible to obtain, which by the look of the patrons hanging off the bar at this time is a blessing in disguise but a let down for the white coated police breath test team hanging around down the road at Jalan Sultan Ismail. For the more detail minded the songs in approximate (Yes, it was late and the local Carlsberg is somewhat more-ish) order are: "Rock around the Clock", "Love me Do", and culminating in the definitive HRC-KL/Otis Redding version of "Shout".

Still back to last night and forgetting about past experience, Nora didn't turn up (SPG speak for "I found a new gweilo since I rang who looks like he has a bigger wallet so stuff you"), but I met a trio of my Belgian friends..the engineer working on the KLCC project, the medical instruments sales manager who is one of the richest men in KL, and his Malay girlfriend who insists on kissing me three times on opposite cheeks in the traditional French fashion in fond greeting and farewell. You couldn't move at that time last night such was the extent of the crowd.

....and then I met Honey.. ...Honey Chung to be exact, or that is what her business card says which I have on the desk next to me right now....who turned out to be a hand phone sales person who earns 3 to 4000 Ringitt a month out for a great time with her friends. She was also great at one-liner put-downs, delivered with vicious eloquence 10 seconds after delivering equally practised innocent come-ons.......and what a dancer.. Thankfully her dress (what there was of it) stayed on by an incredible feat of gravity, I got introduced to all her yuppie friends and she celebrated the rest of Prophet Mohammed's birthday by swilling copious amounts of Vodka and Limes and getting more and more tactile with yours truly. In fact I've still got a bit of a rash today from the constant friction with one of those black dresses with the little bumps all over the material. As a finale to the night she slowly but with great determination slid off her bar stool in a drunken stupor to the sticky HRC floor (while still maintaining that wonderful smile).

I delivered the recalcitrant Honey lump back to her friends, avoiding their stares (....Hey I thought you were looking after her!...), slunk out into the darkness of the night and with a quick apprehensive look around for any hungry ghosts in the approximate vicinity slid into the nearest cab seat. The moon peeked cautiously out from behind some clouds. The lights along Jalan Raja Chulun reflected eerily upon the giant puddles left by a recent thunderstorm. Weird music emanated from the cracked radio speaker of the taxi 6 inches from my right ear.

The only hungry ghost around tonight was the cabbie...... who charged me 6 Ringitt for a 2 kilometer journey back to the hotel.


Thursday 24th August, Kuala Lumpur


Tonight I met up with some old friends from Singapore at the Jurrasik Pub in that wonderful old colonial railway station in Kuala Lumpur . After a few beers, a new acquaintance George Lui suggested we go to his Karoake Club. Now that cheered me up since I had not been to one since the lamented departure of Club Rose...another victim to development in KL. Jamal was there, who was in the police department at Johor Bahru and had driven the 3 hours up the black top to be with us (and more importantly his KL resident girlfriend Julie.) It was still early so we had a few more beers and the spicy crunchy anchovies with chilli. (you know.... the ones with the eyes still on them).

We bundled into the old Mercedes and the new BMW and wended our way down Jalan Raja Chulun and made our way towards Club Toppan. One of those places that you walk past in the daytime and never realise it is there. A quick call and another few beers at the wine bar in the corridor where I spent my time avoiding the glances of the two young ladies in the corner. I guess George just did not want us to drink too much in the Club and he was making sure we drank enough before we got in.

Finally at 1am we made our way past the well built penguins guarding the entrance and to my dismay headed for one of the little rooms. Now I hate the little rooms. The locals love them because you get to sing more songs and don't have to have stage fright as you are only singing among friends. Me....? ...well I prefer to share my version of New York New York with everyone.

So being giving reassurance that this means we will all got to sing all the songs we like, we poured into the 5 by 5 room with the computer in the corner where you type in your song numbers and the video in the corner. Now I do have to complement this establishment of its selection of tunes. Theres a Japanese song book, a Chinese song book and an English/Malay songbook. And 5 versions of "My Way" which meant choosing was a problem.

I find that Karaokes come in several forms in Asia. There is the ubiquitous dingy ones with cheap drinks, old tapes, threadbare lounges with depressed springs and old GRO's. Then there is the glittery ones with new tapes, great sound systems, new furniture, waiters in tuxedos, young GRO's, expensive drinks and 50 dollar cover charges and 20 dollar "titbits". There are very few in between and Club Rose was one of them.

Club Toppan was one of the latter more common ones, and I cant tell you the drink, cover charge or GRO hourly charges because George paid for all of it (of course). Splitting bills is very bad form.

In response to George's enquiry of whether I would "like a girl", I shook my head vigorously, which prompted him to bring in two to introduce to me. Fluttering their eyelashes, they sat down uncomfortably close, on each side. One couldn't speak English but they were both good cuddlers. One was called "Ruby" and one was called "Tanya" (at least in this place).

Don't believe anything you hear at a Karoake Club. But keep your eyes and ears open. This is perhaps the first rule of doing business in Asia. The whole environment is created to obscure the truth and impair your judgement. Take tonight (or rather last night as I am writing this at 5am) for instance. The lights were low meaning you cant see anything clearly. The music is loud so you don't hear anything clearly. They force feed you brandy so you cant think clearly, then they bring you over a girl who pretends your her only love and is much better looking than your wife (sorry Hortense). Mind you the lights were low and she was wearing a lot of makeup and a dress that did accentuate her good points. (yep, it was cold too..in direct contrast to the humid oven out on the street). After a while you believe shes yours...

Then you sing a song through a mixer which makes your voice sound like Frank Sinatras'. The barman act is if they are your closest friends. They even laughed at my jokes. That last time that happened was in 1966.

Your host is very obliging and is making heaps of promises about what business you are going to do together.

...Things are not as they seem.....

So just enjoy it and realise you're in a fantasy land. We all need a release sometimes. But wait..your being sized up as well. If you don't know how to play the Karoake game, practice...because with their defences down you can find out interesting things about other people's character and whether you want to do business with them. First of all, can they handle their liquor with grace and dignity? Do they know where to stop? Do they sing their songs with good humor and accept constructive criticism and compliments gracefully? Do they have the stamina to stay until the end?

These are all important characteristics to doing business with others. Personal characteristics are as important as business contacts and acumen. So play the game, but play it well.

I got home at 4 am this morning, and I'm writing this before my 10 am meeting in the morning. For an old guy, once a month is enough.....

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